Looking for some assistance/pictures of fuel line routing for a 4400 Industrial. The lines were cut prior to owning and turned into gravity fed. I am putting a new fuel pump in and remaking the lines. Service manual has not helped. The fuel line fitting that threads into the sediment bowl and carburetor is 7/16- 24 thread. The fuel line is 1/4' outside dia. Just returned from a Tool Supply Co, and they have those thread gages that on can use to determine the thread type and size.
![Line Line](http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z232/JMOR_photo/carbs/600_fuel_cutoff1.jpg)
What is the correct setting for each of the 3 valves on an 8N (1952 model). A couple weeks ago, I took the carb apart to put in a new float and messed around with the valve settings.
Just got it running again today.it ran pretty good for the first 15 minutes. Then, it kept acting like it wanted to die and was jerking on me.
I tried it for another 10 minutes or so and it kept doing the same thing. It did seemed to run a little better when I pulled the choke out slightly.but it still jerked a little.I will get new spark plugs and see if that helps, but in any case I'd like to make sure the valves/screws on the carb are set correctly.
I understand the setting may vary a little for each tractor, but is there a general rule of thumb to the settings? I have a '51 8N and have had it for 30+ years. I have had every bolt out of it at least once, over the years. Take your sediment bowl off, and if there is still a screen at the top of the bowl, make sure it's clean.
And if it is and the tank is low on fuel, blow 20-30 lbs of air pressure back through the fuel bowl to the tank. The bad thing is people don't use the first half turn to three quarters turn for the reserve part of the tank, and it will plug up. Highly recommend using the reserve tank on the valve most of the time, to let any dirt/moisture go through the system. Like the other gentleman said - 1 1/2 to 2 turns on the main jet, 1 turn on the idle jet. With the fuel valve shut off (necessary on these old tractors, when not in use) you can take the low air pressure and remove both jet needles, and blow air back through the carb to remove any junk, but the problem is probably in the fuel tank reserve valve portion. Good luck - Yugo.
Related Sites Submitted ArticleStep-by-Step Carburetor Overhaul1952 Ford 8Nby Don Stewart The carburetor kit for the TSX-241A/B/C carburetor is being supplied in onlyone flavor nowadays. It includes a replacement throttle shaft, new butterflyvalve screws, fuel inlet filter, new float needle and seat, new float pin andgaskets.The rebuild kits are manufactured by TISCO (BK45V) and are available fromtractor supply houses that sponsor Yesterday's Tractors 8N,and also manufactured by Sorenson and carried on special order by AutoZone andthe like.How you remove the carburetor from your tractor will depend on yourparticular model/year. There are two linkage shafts that connect to thecarburetor, one to the governor and one to the choke control on the dash. Eachof these shafts terminate in a spring loaded socket that will release the ballon the carburetor throttle shaft or choke shaft when the endcap is pulledagainst the spring.A rigid steel fuel line connects to the carburetor fuel strainer elbow. Besure the fuel shutoff valve in in the closed position, and use a flare nutwrench to remove the flare fitting at the elbow without damaging it.
Note theposition of the elbow for reassembly, later. Loosen the clamps that hold the airhose onto the carburetor air inlet horn and work the hose loose. Remove the twonuts that retain the carburetor to the intake manifold on the engine. Work thecarburetor down and away from the manifold until the studs are clear and thecarburetor is free from the air inlet hose.Remove the idle mixture screw/needle, spring and gasket, the power mixturescrew/needle, spring and gaskets, and the fuel strainer/elbow.Carefully scrape off any gasket material on the manifold and its matingsurface on the carburetor.
Any gasket material left on either the manifold orcarburetor will cause an air leak after reassembly.Remove the 4 machine screws that hold the upper and lower carburetor bodiestogether. Gently separate the bodies taking care not to damage or bend the brassfloat inside the upper body.A steel pin holds the float in the upper body. Slide the pin out of its earsto release the float. Shake the float and listen for any liquid inside thefloats. If there is liquid inside either float, replace the float and set in asafe place.Underneath the float and held in by the float tang is the float needle. Pullit out and compare it to the new one in the rebuild kit. The needle will eitherbe made entirely of steel or will have a rubber tip.
![8n fuel line routing to carburetor kit 8n fuel line routing to carburetor kit](/uploads/1/2/5/4/125482968/531643163.jpg)
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