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So fast forward, I have been playing with this for the last few weeks and got a working setup with my raspberry Pi 2.Pi 2 flatI went on sliming it down by removing the GPIO pins, usb’s, ethernet ports and camera connector. I got a bit too violent with the second set of USB ports and end up breaking a tiny resistor on the board.Luckly it was close to the second usb’s port so doesn’t affect my setup.Pi + OPL testingThen I soldered a usb port. Soldered the ethernet port to a breadboard and wired it to the pi board so that I could try this.
All worked as expected.PI FMV testingAnd just made to show how smooth it is.Beware neck strain ahead, probably need to do this landscape next time.I have been testing this with +10 games so far and haven’t come across a game where the FMV would slow down. Let’s see how it goes.Until next time folks.
![Game Game](/uploads/1/2/5/4/125482968/744948346.jpg)
Finally manage to get some solid time over the weekend to work on my portable.So let’s get straight to the update.Screen boardTo slim down the board I had to relocate a capacitor, remove all those gpio pins and solder the little board directly on top of the main board.Did some fitting in the case to see how it will look, just have enough spaces for the controller boardOn/off Pi buttonFinally received my ATXraspi board, this will let me turn on / off the raspberry pi with a momentary switch. Press for 1sec for reset, 3sec for shutdown and more than 8sec for hard shutdown. With this I will be able to reset the PS2 independently from the Raspberry Pi to switch games without having to restart the PI.Case workUsing some homemade ABS cement I frankencase the back part that I made from another Polycase.This section will hold the Pi along with the fan& heatsink and memory card slot.Memory card slotI went with reusing the memory card slot from the original PS2 for an nicer look, trimming it was a bit of work but the result looks great. The “door” got a few scratch along the way but it’s pretty easy to switch it with another one.I want the PS2 board to be flush again the back so that the fan & heatsink line up in the back part of the case.For this I need to modified the case a bit to make some space for that annoying group of capacitor from the video lines.I end up reusing the top part of a spare PS2 power supply to cover that section.
That thing was pretty hard to remove though, must have been glue or something.Next the fun part will be sanding all that smooth. Let the sanding begin.
Also, just sharing some info about the controller board I’m using. It’s from a third party controller called “Genius maxfire blaze”. I got it a while back and was pleasantly surprise to see the board was quite small.The gamepad look like thisAnd it’s made of 2 boards, the big one is only for the button contacts and the small one can be wired directly with the through holes.This model is not in production anymore but there is some newer revision ( Genius maxfire blaze2, Genius maxfire blaze3 ) which in theory could have the same form factor. So after a few message exchange with about the PS2 video output I wanted to have another go at setting up VGA.
When I played with that 4 years ago I already had a trimmed PS2 and had a few things setup on it and for some reason it just didn’t want to work.I went back to my 5.6” Dalian Good display screen which was still connected to the LMH1251 board and desolder everything. So after a few message exchange with about the PS2 video output I wanted to have another go at setting up VGA. When I played with that 4 years ago I already had a trimmed PS2 and had a few think setup on it and for some reason it just didn’t want to work.I went back to my 5.6” Dalian Good display screen which was still connected to the LMH1251 board and desolder everything.